> oldest taverns in the whole country, operating since 1890. It’s in a basement close to the central market, filled with wine barrels and frequented by musicians who sometimes come in with their instruments and start playing to guests. I like how small the place is and that you’ll often be forced to share a small table with strangers, which is unusual in Greece. The owner, Mr Mitsos, is lovely. He has become like an Athenian icon. When I visit, I always order the revithosoupa (chickpeas soup) and grilled sardines. It’s not known to everyone, but you can go to the market, buy yourself some fish or seafood, and give it to Mr Mitsos to grill for a small charge.

Incredible taste. You go there, they will seat you on a shared table and serve you food without asking you anything. Nice atmosphere, amazing dishes. Best meal of my stay there